In October of 2019 , Scott Borden and I joined a plant expedition tour to Peru. It was a different type of tour for me. The focus was mostly on seeing cacti and bromeliads growing in their natural habitats as opposed to visiting private and botanic gardens like most tours I’ve been on. I wrote about seeing the giant Puya raimondii that was one of the reasons I was on the trip, the other was to visit Machu Picchu.
I recall learning in high school world history class about the Inca empire and extensive civilization in the high Andes Mountains of central South America. I was fascinated by the tales of domesticated llamas, which served as both pack animals and sources of wool, and elaborate road systems that connected the empire in trade, war, and culture, allowing quick movement of armies and information across vast distances. Machu Picchu was likely a royal estate of Inca rulers, a remarkable feat of architecture perched high above the Sacred Valley. However, it was abandoned about the time Spaniards invaded other parts of the empire, leading to the gradual decline of this once-thriving civilization. The reason for abandonment isn’t fully known, but some speculate it was due to a combination of factors such as social upheaval, disease, and the impact of Spanish conquest. Machu Picchu would not become well known until 1911 when American Hiram Bingham brought it to national attention, unveiling its hidden treasures to the world. Today, it is a UNESCO World Heritage site, celebrated for its archaeological significance and breathtaking views, attracting over one and a half million tourists a year from all over the globe, who come to marvel at its history and stunning vistas that tell the story of the Inca people.
Machu Picchu sits at 8,000 feet in elevation, surrounded by lush green mountains that stretch as far as the eye can see. By the time our tour arrived there, I’d already been in the Andes for a couple of weeks, often above 9,000 feet and up to 15,000 feet, so the elevation didn’t affect my breathing or walking as it might for others. Our journey began in the quaint town of Ollantaytambo, which has its own rich history and impressive ruins. From there, we took a very early morning train to Aguas Calientes in the valley below Machu Picchu, nestled among the clouds. The train ride offered breathtaking views of the dramatic landscape, with steep cliffs and rushing rivers making the early wake-up worth it. Once we arrived at the train station, we stood in line in the early morning rain to board buses that drove us through misty hills to the entrance of Machu Picchu. The atmosphere was electric with anticipation as Scott Borden and I would spend the next five hours exploring the enigmatic ruins, marveling at the architectural genius of the Incas. A bit of bad planning on our part, we didn’t realize that there was no food or bathrooms on the site and that once you exit, you can’t return, which led to us spending a lot of our visit feeling very hungry and slightly uncomfortable. The breathtaking views and history distracted us, but our stomachs eventually reminded us of our oversight. When we finally exited, we grabbed a quick lunch outside the gates at a small café and we decided to walk down the steep hillside back to the train station afterward. The trail was mostly uncomfortably large steps, winding down 1,200 feet to the Urubamba River, presenting both a challenge and an adventure as we navigated our way back.
We were told it would take about 45 minutes to get to the bottom, but what we didn’t allow for was the uphill hike from the river back to the train station in town . . . however with a quick pace we did manage to make it back in time for the return train.
Photos left to right; (left) Hundreds of bromeliads growing on a cliff face, (center) bromeliad hangs onto a tree branch over the steep cliff faces rising from the valley, and (right) mosses, lichen, and tillandsias on a rock face.
Earlier in the morning when we got to Machu Picchu, the rain had stopped, but it was very foggy, and we could only see a short way ahead. As the morning went on, the clouds would sometimes lift a bit, giving us quick views of the beautiful ruins before covering them up again. This changing dance of clouds and sunlight made our visit feel magical, as if we were in a storybook.
The ruins include about 200 stone structures, each one telling a story of the ancient civilization that lived here. Some of these ruins gracefully flow down the hillsides, fitting perfectly into the landscape. They are known for their carefully crafted stonework without mortar, showing the advanced skills of the Incas. This impressive method has kept the structures standing for centuries, against the effects of time and weather. The way the stones fit together is amazing; they seem like pieces of a giant puzzle designed to last through nature’s challenges. As we walked around the site, it was clear that every stone and slope was placed with purpose, combining history with the stunning view of the Andes, leaving us in awe of the creativity and skill of these ancient builders.
The clouds and mist that are a regular part of the ecosystem here provide perfect conditions for mosses, ferns, orchids, bromeliads, tillandsias, and many other species.
The grass is kept in check by organic lawn mowers – llamas which roam the grounds. However, inside the ruins, most of the vegetation has been removed and it is mostly grass. Much of the surrounding land on top was terraced for agricultural production and to make entrance up the steep cliffs unlikely. An extensive irrigation system was used to water the crops. The Urubamba River surrounds the hillside on three sides and steep cliffs ascend from the river. Several larger peaks sit about the ruins.
Even without the ruins, the views of the clouds moving in and out of the steep hills would create a magical experience, but add in the buildings, the llamas and the plants and you have a thrilling and breathtaking experience.
